Thyme For Cooking, the Blog

Stuffed Peppers and Tour

We played tourist yesterday.  Some of you may think that living in France, or any country other than your native one, is a constant adventure: places to go; things to do; cities and sites to explore.

The first few months we lived in Ireland we did that.   At least two days a week we would pack a picnic lunch and head off in a new direction.   The type-A personalities still held sway and Ireland was compact: lots to see in a small area.  It seemed as if there were castles, gardens or ancient villages around every corner.

It wasn't as convenient after we moved to Andorra.  We quickly explored the local area, but, because we were in the mountains, it took us three hours to get down, so to speak, which left day trips overly long.  We quickly fell into the local routine of mountain walks and golf.

By the time we moved to France, the type-A personalities were shed and we were in the typical rut: taking care of the garden, house and property with the weekly trip into town to do the shopping and the occasional foray up to Ikea.  When we had visitors we would do the tourist bit, taking in the local sites followed by Paris.   But they were the same local sites; the same Paris.   

We 'd forgotten to live, to get out and enjoy life.  We were just plodding along, weeding, cleaning, mowing and cooking, with the weekly bike ride thrown in for fun. 

Time for a change.  We decided that once a month we would go exploring: get to know a new city, go to an historical site or a museum, have a leisurely lunch, explore the nooks and crannies that visitors, with a limited schedule, really don't care about. 

In August we spent the day in Niort.  Never heard of it?  Not surprised. It's a lovely little city but nothing remarkable.  A pretty market, nice donjon, small shopping area; very pleasant....if you live within driving distance.

Yesterday we went to Tour.  It has a lot of old world charm and reminded me a bit of Barcelona, with a long 'Ramblas' -type flower market(above); a lovely old town with half-timbered houses and a pretty park along the river.  We'll go back, maybe to stay overnight and explore more leisurely.  I'd recommend a visit if you're already in the area and have the time. 

Now, on to the food:

Weekend Herb Blogging is being hosted this week by Haalo of Cook (almost) Anything ... at least once.
And don't forget: next weekend Kalyn, of Kalyn's Kitchen, the founder of Weekend Herb Blogging will be hosting the big 2-Year Anniversary Celebration!

I've been seeing a lot of posts about stuffed peppers lately. 

And rightly so!  To me it is the quintessential fall food.  I love stuffing all sorts of vegetables but peppers just lend themselves to it perfectly.   

Some people love them; some hate them...   In my humble opinion, if you like vegetables and like peppers normally, you will like stuffed peppers, provided you don't cook them into a bitter mush...

All peppers, but particularly the red ones are rich in vitamins A, C, and K, and antioxidants. They can help reduce inflammation like that found in arthritis and asthma and are noted for helping to prevent certain cancers: prostate, bladder, cervix and pancreas.

I have lots of recipes for stuffed bell peppers; here are my two current favorites using two different cooking methods:

Stuffed Peppers, Oriental

5 - 6 oz (150gr) ground beef/turkey/sausage
2 bell peppers try to get 4-sided peppers
1 medium onion
1 stalk celery
1 tbs chopped fresh ginger 
2 cloves garlic
1 tbs olive oil
1/3 - 1/2 cup chopped water chestnuts
2 tbs soy sauce
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
2 1/2 tbs cornstarch (corn flour, maizena)
1 cup cooked brown rice

Cut peppers in half the long way (try to find the best flat sides before cutting so that they will lay nicely) and remove stem end and seeds.  Set aside (do not blanch).  Peel and chop onion and garlic.  Chop celery.  Sauté onion, celery and garlic over medium heat in large skillet.  Skillet must be large enough to hold all pepper halves, when they are stuffed, in one layer.  When onions start to become translucent add ginger, water chestnuts and meat.  Break meat up as it cooks.  When meat is cooked add 1 tbs soy sauce and 1/4 cup chicken stock.  Dissolve 1 tbs cornstarch in 1/4 cup chicken stock.  Add to the skillet and stir well, cooking until it thickens.  Add rice and mix well.  Fill peppers with meat and rice (set on a plate while you work).  Once all peppers are filled using all of the beef and rice, put the peppers back into the same pan (filled side up, in one layer).  Pour remaining 1 cup of chicken stock around peppers in skillet, cover, return to heat and simmer for 20 minutes, until peppers are tender.  Remove peppers.  Dissolve remaining 1 1/2 tbs cornstarch in remaining 1 tbs soy sauce (add 1 tbs water to make it easier).  Bring stock left in pan to a boil.  Add cornstarch mixture and stir, cooking until thick.  Serve peppers with sauce on the side.

And if you want the more traditional style with tomatoes and cheese:

Stuffed Peppers, Americas Style

5 oz ground beef  (150 gr mince)
1 medium onion
2 stalks celery
2 cloves garlic
1 tbs olive oil
1 tsp chili powder
1 tbs Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp dried basil
1 can tomatoes, chopped
2 Tbs red wine
1/2 cup shredded cheese
1/3 cup cooked quinoa
2/3 cup stock
2 nicely shaped bell peppers
2 - 4 drops hot pepper sauce or more...

Cook quinoa in stock until done.  Put a large pot of water on high heat and bring to a boil.  Cut peppers in half the long way (try to find the best flat sides before cutting so that they will lay nicely) and remove stem end and seeds.  When water is boiling drop peppers in and simmer for 5 minutes.  Remove (use tongs) and put into a baking dish that will just hold them (if possible).  Finely chop onion, celery and garlic.  In nonstick skillet heat oil over medium-high heat.  Sauté chili powder for 1 minute.  Add garlic, celery and onion, sauté until tender, 5 - 7 minutes.  Add beef and sauté until cooked through breaking it up as it cooks.  Add tomatoes, wine, Worcestershire sauce, basil, hot pepper sauce and quinoa.  Remove from heat and spoon mixture into the pepper halves.  Cover with foil and bake for 15 minutes at 400F (200C).  Remove foil and sprinkle with shredded cheese,  Bake, uncovered until cheese melts.  Serve.

Be sure to visit Haalo at Cook (almost) Anything ... at least once for the week's round-up!

And eat your peppers...they're good for you.... just don't overcook them!

The Saga of the Titre de Sejour, French Paperwork in 4-parts. Part VII, 'THE END...I think, for now

I think we're done!  Our 4-part Saga (see parts I, II, III, IV, V, VI)  in getting all of the paperwork, permissions, etc. done to legally reside in France, is finally coming to an end...sort of.  Two weeks ago we got the dreaded letter from the 'Powers That Be' regarding our 'Cart Vitale' or French medical insurance card.  I prepared myself mentally for the list of new things that would be required and opened the letter.  I read it.  Then I read it again.  Then I called our translator and read it to him.  He assured me that I had understood it and there were no hidden meanings: we had been granted the coveted 'Cart Vitale' .  No further paperwork, test, or anything would be required.  We had it!  Well, actually not the card, we had a piece of paper saying that we would GET the card.  One thing at a time, here.   
The other item we were missing was the 'Permis de Conduire'  French driving license.  We had been denied permission to exchange our Andorran licenses and had submitted an appeal.  I wrote it, explaining the details in typical American businesswoman fashion:  a succinct accounting of the events, and, implying, while not actually stating, that they (person who denied) was an effing idiot!  I gave it to a friend who translated it, (in more ways than one) putting in all of the flowery phrases, kowtowing, ass-kissing, etc. necessary to get anything done in France.  Last week I got an e-mail from the 'Prefecture de la Vendee'.  Well not actually THE Prefecture (I assume) but from someone in the office.  The e-mail said, briefly, that our filed had been reviewed and that we could bring our documents back to the offices of 'Permis de Conduire' and it would be re-opened.  Happy Day!  We wouldn't have to go to Driving School and take all of the exams!  Yippee!
We dutifully gathered up all of the documents, pictures, copies of documents etc. and off we went.  While we were waiting our turn I was debating whether or not to just pretend this was our first time (easiest, but I'd have to fill in all the paperwork again) or to try to explain all of the details (in my less than perfect French).  I finally remembered that this was France and they probably had a file a mile high on us that everyone had access to so best to confess our transgressions and throw ourselves on their mercy, once again.  When it was our turn I stumbled through our story, gave her lots of papers, (the denial, our letter of appeal, copy of the e-mail, etc.).  She took it all, smiled gravely and left.  I heard her on the phone for a bit, then she came out of her office, nodded, and went into someone else's office.  Ten minutes later she came back, nodded again, said it would be a few more minutes, and went back to her office.  Then she came out and told us to go sit; she waited on the next people.  We had no clue as to what the problem was:  fake e-mail?  someone playing a bad joke?  PTB changed their collective minds?  we were not worthy?  Finally she called us back and handed us our Andorran licenses with a smile.  I numbly took them...but wait...that's a different picture!  I turned them over and....it didn't say 'Andorra' it said 'FRANCE'  (I didn't know they were the same style...duh!).  They weren't making us redo all of the paperwork and wait 6 months.....they had actually issued the licenses....right there...on the spot....now....today!  I was speechless (which is a very bad thing to be in France)  I finally remembered my manners, gave her many 'merci beaucoup's, kissed her ring and we left,  still unbelieving but pink paper in hand.
Now if we could only convince them to let us exchange the Andorran number plates on our car.....That file is 2 inches thick and growing.... 

The Saga of the Titre de Sejour, French Paperwork in 4-parts. Part VI, Not 'Fin' Yet!

We have our 'Titre de Sejour', our permission to live in France.  We thought, mistakenly, that once that hurdle had been jumped the rest would be easy.  Well, there we go 'thinking' again!  How foolish.  (if you are curious and have not been following the Saga here are parts I, II, III, IV, V)  We still have two more items to get, both, we were assured, would should be easy.  One is the Carte Vitale - our medical insurance card.  We have dropped the inch-thick file into the French paperwork abyss and are awaiting the initial refusal.  The second is the 'Permis de Conduire', the French driving license. Here is that story:
First, let me explain that because we are American (and not EU) nothing is easy, everything is new and groundbreaking, and never, ever, ever been done before.  We are the precedent.  If you are a member of the EU and you move to another EU country you take your driving license to the local authorities and they give you one of theirs.  Simple.  Because we are American we can't do that.  In Andorra we accepted the inevitable and took the driving test.  (Another story to be told later...).  After we move to France we think: we have taken the tests in Andorra, we have valid Andorran licenses, Andorra is in Europe (though not the EU - thus the hitch). Therefore, this should be easy.  We called,  Yes, in fact, it is easy.  Come on down, fill out a bit of paperwork and we'll give you French licenses.  We did.  It was easy!  We immediately became worried.  Rightly so!  The denial came on Friday.  It seems that in order to do an 'exchange' it had to be done within a year of becoming residents.  We had not done it in a timely manner so we had to go to driving school, take all sorts of tests and pay a gazillion euros. Thank you!
But here's the thing: we applied within a year (3 months, actually) of being informed, (as in having actual knowledge of) that we were residents. We received our 'Titre' in March, 2006.  It was already expired.  We couldn't get our licenses before this because we didn't have the proper paperwork and, as far as we knew, were not entitled to because we were not legal residents.  We couldn't get them after because the paperwork was expired.  We filed for renewal of the expired 'Titre' which we received the last day of May.  Now, for the first time since we moved here over 2 years ago, we are legally resident, we know we are legally resident and we have the proper, completed paperwork to prove it.  Off we go to the bureaucrats to fill out the forms for the driving licenses...but, sorry, too late.  You should have done this last year, we are told. "But last year we weren't legal residents" we exclaim.  "Yes you were, it says so right here" they point out.  "But we didn't know" we cry.  "Well you should have" they answer.  "But you didn't tell us" we shriek.  "Oh, that's a different department"   Bam! Bam! with the big red Denied stamp, a smiling "bon journee" and we are dismissed.  It's like a Mobius strip; the never-ending story!  It makes my head hurt.  We have appealed....I'm going to go make pickles...

The Saga of the Titre de Sejour, French Paperwork in 4-parts. Part V, La Fin

We are now the proud holders of unexpired 'Titre de Sejour''s.  They arrived last week, in record time (this time...actually it was probably a record last time, too see Parts I - IV) and are valid for almost 9 whole months!  That means I don't have to start the renewal process for 6 whole months! 
Now that we are proud, legal residents we get to participate in that other time-honored tradition: taxes.  In the U.S people start worrying about their taxes in December, trying to juggle stuff before the end of the year, take January off then kick into high gear in February after all the documents are in hand.  Then, they either get it done immediately, complaining and bragging all the while, or drag their feet (complaining and bragging) until April12th, at which point they panic, shut-up and get it done.  We found out in March, when we got the expired "Titre de Sejour", that, even though we didn't know we were legal residents for 2005 we are still obligated to pay taxes for 2005.  We asked for the tax forms.  Madame la Secretaire laughed and said "Not yet, in May".  The tax filing is due on May 31st so I assumed she didn't understand that I was asking about the forms, not the due date.  Once again, I am wrong.  Since the filing is due on the 31st the forms are sent out around the 15th...of May.  Why would you want them sooner?  You don't need them sooner....they don't have to be in until the 31st! Since this would be our 'first time' a friend suggested that we go to the tax office and have them 'officially' help us.  Two advantages to that: one, they're done correctly (we didn't have a clue) and two, they're done by a 'tax department official', meaning they should pass on up the chain with no problems.  We make the appointment to see the English-speaking person at the tax office - for 2:00pm on the 30th...no hurry.  Because we have an appointment we march past the other hundred people patiently waiting to get their taxes done, receiving some rather scathing looks.  Two hours later we emerge, finished, after listening to a lot of telephone calls in French and watching her do some mysterious calculating.  Apparently one cannot actually do French taxes oneself: you submit all of your documents, records, etc.; they consult the magic computer, come up with a number and you pay it...all very secretive. We were told how much we would need to pay.  In the U.S. your return can be late as long as the money is paid.  Here the return must be on time - payment comes later.  As I am reaching for the checkbook she laughs, "non, non, we will send you a bill".  A bill?  Une facture?  An invoice?  Oui!  The system is, one files on or about May 31 and are told how much you will need to pay.  The first bill, for the tax, comes in September, the second for the health insurance, etc. contribution comes in November.  Why not just send in the money with the return?  That could eliminate jobs, silly!  In our area there are 600 'tax people' - enough that (we calculated) they could go, personally, to every house, have a coffee, chat, do the taxes, collect the payment (cash, pigs, wine, whatever) and still not miss a day of their required 2 months holiday.  As with so many things here, that's just the way it is....

The Saga of the Titre de Sejour, French Paperwork in 4-parts. Part IV

Back to the Carte de Sejour: We now have the coveted visa so we confidently submit our file, once again.  Since it now contains the visa, they actually open it, 10 months from the original submission. Then they send us a list of additional documents that they need – actually papers to clarify the originally requested documents.  Did the thought cross our mind that we could have been gathering these papers at the same time as we waited for the visas? Yes. Did we voice that thought?  No, it would have been met with a blank look. Why would they look at an incomplete file?  We gathered the additional papers. One, a letter from the U.S. took 4 weeks.  Then it had to be translated….officially. In June, one full year after the original submission, we send off all of the additional papers. Great, accept now, I repeat, it's June, which is almost July, which is the month leading up to August when everything closes, so nothing will be done until September.  Mid-September, giving everyone a chance to get over the summer holidays, we call to check the status.  We are told it is ‘en cours’ – in process. We wait some more.  At the end of September, we are asked to come in.  We present ourselves, giddy with excitement... at last, they are here, we think! No, we are given a ‘Récépissé’ (receipt) for our file – proof that it is, indeed ‘en cours’. This is good for 3 months.  It has our photos in it, all very official. We assume that, because it is good for 3 months we will have the actual 'Titre' within that time.  Once again, we assumed incorrectly. In mid-October, just before I leave for a week to visit my mother in the U.S., we receive the notice for the medical exam…scheduled for the week I am gone, of course. We call the number given to use for re-scheduling. No problem we are told. At the end of December, 20 months into the process and 3 days before the ‘Récépissé’, expires we are given our medicals. We pass (tough one – how is your health?  Good. Good, stamp!) Another call from the secrétaire.  Once again, our hopes are up. Once again they are dashed.  Another ‘Récépissé” good for another 3 months (our first one’s expired). In the beginning of February we get another call…Hope goes up…dashed again.  They need more photos - they have used up the ones originally submitted on the two ‘Récépissé’. Off we go to get more photos.
That brings us up to date.  Friday, 22 months after we started this 2-month process we are the proud holders of expired Carte de Sejour.  Oh yes, we had to turn the official receipts in – they were valid until April 15.....
Friday, one week after receving the expired 'Titre" I submitted the renewal..... I am already 3 months behind.

The Saga of the Titre de Sejour, French Paperwork in 4-parts. Part III

It’s an 8-hour drive to Andorra.  Did I mention that this was February?  And Andorra is in the mountains?  It’s a big ski area?  Lots of snow?  Did I mention that we stupidly believed the weather forecast that it was going to be sunny and warm?  We got to Andorra about six in the evening.  It started snowing about seven.  We have an SUV and we can drive around the high passes so we're not worried.  First thing the next morning we slip and slide up the mountain to the consulate, get our visas stamped in our passports and start the trek home, the long way, down through Spain to avoid the snow.  It’s raining at the lower elevations so no problem. About an hour out of Andorra, it turns to snow again. As we enter a roundabout just before Puigcerdá, a small town on the French-Spanish border, we hear a loud ‘clunk’ and our car refuses to move.  It is now snowing in earnest. I get out my trusty mobile and call the auto club.  After several calls back and forth, (me struggling to speak French, them struggling to understand the Yank with the bad accent) we are informed that the tow truck is on its way. Meanwhile we manage to back the car out of the roundabout and sit back to enjoy the snow. About an hour later, we see a tow truck go by heading towards Andorra.  Must be ours, we think, at last.  It was ours but he was confused by the directions and went all the way to Andorra.  Two hours later he goes by again.  Finally, just after dark, he goes by a third time, stops, backs up and asks if we are the ones needing a tow. He has now gone past our car, sitting in the same spot by the side of the road with hazard triangles out, 3 times in 4 hours…..Yes, please, we need a tow. He loads up our truck, we climb into his cab and head up the mountain (yes, up, into the heavy snow) to wherever he came from. An hour later, we are in Saillagouse. We, and our car, are dropped off at a tiny, little garage.  We are told to spend the night at the (not a, the) hotel and check back in the morning. We head off to the village in the snow on foot, no boots, no gloves, no scarves (it was going to be warm, remember) looking for the hotel. We found it, it was warm, it had wine, we stayed.
The next morning we were supposed to call the auto club to find out how to get home.  The battery on my mobile was dead after all of the calls, (naturally, I had forgotten the charger) and the phone in our room wasn't working. We head off to the bar to use the phone – that day, and that day only, the hotel would have no phone service anywhere as they were installing a new system. No worries, there is a phone booth (remember them?) just down the street.  They were correct. We found it right where they said it was. Unfortunately, it didn't work.  Neither did the next one we were directed to by the tourist office. The third one was a charm….and, it finally quit snowing. Anyway, we were taken on a 2-hour drive through the mountains to the airport at Perpignan where we rented a car and headed home. 10 days later we came back and got our car.  The problem? A screw came loose in the brake. The cost? 34 euros.                         Part IV on Monday

The Saga of the Titre de Sejour, French Paperwork in 4-parts. Part II

We submit our visa application to the French Consulate in Andorra (the last place we lived). It’s September and we are 4 months into the 2-month process (there was July and August in there – when nothing is done...summer holidays, you know).  The French Consulate says we must come in person for an interview. Fine, I could always do with some shopping.  They didn't actually need to talk to us; they just needed us to give them the '90 euros each' processing fee.
How long, we ask. Ten days, they answered.  Fifteen days later, they said: Who told you such a silly thing, it's always two months.  Everything in France takes two months.  So we wait two months. I sent a fax asking the status. I am told it is ‘en cours’ (in process). Another month goes by…another fax….another reply ‘en cours’.  Then it’s Christmas. Nothing is done over the holidays, which start on December 8 and go through January 6 (Remember, it’s the Andorran workers we are dealing with. They celebrate the French holidays, the Spanish holidays and the Andorran holidays.)
It’s January, 9 months into the process.  I send an e-mail as well as a fax asking the status. I get an e-mail back ‘What visa?’ Hmmmmm this could be a problem….  I gathered up copies of everything and faxed it off. ‘We’ll look into it immediately’ was the response. Now, for some reason, I have their attention.  It seems the file was ‘misplaced in the Paris office’ somehow but they (the Andorran people) would follow up closely. I start to receive status e-mails every other day informing me that, while they still do not have the visas, they are monitoring the progress through the paperwork maize.  In the beginning of February, we finally receive the joyous news: our visas will, in fact, be issued on the 14th of February and we may come by the consulate to collect them on the 15th.
We drop the dogs at the kennel and off we go to Andorra.      Part III on Friday

The Saga of the Titre de Sejour, French Paperwork in 4-parts. Part I

We finally have official permission to live here, in France.  Our Titre de Sejour (Carte de Sejour Temporaire) was issued last week.  It only took two years!  It’s supposed to take two months but apparently, we were ‘fast-tracked’.  But wait, there's more....it expired on Feb. 17, 2006.  In case you are unable to get your mind around the intricacies of French bureaucracy, (or believe that I can't get my fingers around a keyboard), our ‘Titre’ expired 1 month before it was issued...wait, correctly, it expired 1 month before it was typed, it was actually issued 1 year and 1 month before it was typed.  Can’t you just hear whoever did the paperwork giggling as they put in the dates?  With our ‘Titre’ we were handed the blue documents to commence the renewal process and instructed to make certain that we had all of our documents submitted 2 months prior to the expiration date.   Bien sûr! (But of course!)
To be fair, some of this is our fault.  When we left Andorra we wrote to the French Consulate and asked if, after having lived in Andorra for 7 years (with President Chirac as one of its co-princes), we still needed a visa to move to France.  No response.  We wrote again.  They said ‘We answered that question the first time you asked and the answer is the same!’.  Apparently, as they knew the answer they saw no reason for us to know as well.  So, in typical ostrich-fashion, we put our heads in the sand, said to h___ with it and moved.  A month after moving we filed our papers.  They came back: “You need an entry visa.”  We argued our case (which, by the way is both a complete waste of time and incredibly stupid...never argue with a bureaucrat with a rubber stamp.  If they need to have a particular piece of paper to affix their stamp to they will have it!  They simply close the file until the proper paper triggers its re-opening and they can use their stamp.)
Fine, we'll get the visa.       Part II on Wednesday